Preventing Heat By Roof Insulation

Roof insulation is ideal way to prevent unwanted heat penetration from the outside of the building. Roof insulation foil will reduce the amount of sun's radiant heat that penetrate in summer up to 95 percent and also render better thermal protection in colder situation in winter. Effective temperature insulation material preserves the convective heat inside in the winter and creates warmer atmosphere. Applying the perfect type of insulation diminish the amount of energy required for the heating and cooling inside the building and thus permit us to run heating and cooling device less and making them to last longer with reducing energy cost. It also helps to get smaller size of HVAC equipment for larger size of buildings. Properly installed roof insulation material also decreases the chances for thermal and moisture condensation creating problems like mold, mildew, rot and dripping. Applying rood insulation with enough ventilation under the roof surface will help moisture to escape and stop the ice buildup and damage cause by it.

Tiled roofs without sarking can have it added easily if the roof is being re-tiled. If the tiles are to remain in place and the roof space is accessible, you can add double sided foil or foil batts between the rafters or trusses, directly under the tile battens.

Metal roofs need a condensation barrier directly beneath them: a layer of reflective foil sarking is an effective membrane and a barrier to radiant heat, thus doing two jobs at once. It is usually necessary to remove the roofing to install it, but most metal roofing can be removed and reinstalled easily, without damage.

If sarking has been fitted it may still be necessary to fit extra layer/s of foil beneath it. Always maintain a minimum air gap of 25mm between layers. If the roof is being painted to restore color, select the lightest color permissible which heat-reflective roof paints are also an option and then match the remaining color scheme to it.

The ideal roof insulation material for metal building is reflective insulation. It can be laid under the metal roof decking or at the top of the surface. In addition, it can be associated with spray foam from the underneath once the roof decking is in place. In cooler atmosphere, a combination of Batt insulation and reflective foil insulation can work best. Applying the reflective insulation on warmer side will let double as vapor barrier and stop moisture from getting inside. However, any of these types will help reduce the noise levels both inside and from the outside as well. Condensation is one of the major problem faced in the metal structure. Water and moisture in contact with metal surface creates corrosion and can reduce the service life of the structure. Accumulation of water on the roof surface can direct result into dripping, staining, mold, mildew and odors. Additionally, it is important to remember that water or ice collection in fiberglass, blanket or paper wool can seriously degrade the thermal and insulation performance of the material. All of such problems can be overcome by properly by installing vapor barrier system under the roof. Even in only moderately humid conditions, moisture condensation can stimulate serious problems for unprotected metal structure. Fiberglass roof insulation is not that effective in moist situation, instead using reflective insulation can work better. It will not get wet and has longer life compare to woolen, paper and fiberglass. It act as vapor retarder by limiting the passage of water vapor and moisture and thereby preventing the condensation problem.

Applications of Different Insulation Materials

Insulation types and their applications vary depending where or what part of the house you need to install:

Bulk insulation materials

Mainly resists the transfer of conducted and convected heat, relying on pockets of trapped air within its structure. Its thermal resistance is essentially the same regardless of the direction of heat flow through it. Bulk insulation includes materials such as glass wool, wool, cellulose fibre, polyester and polystyrene. All bulk insulation products come with one material R-value for a given thickness. Bulk insulation traps air in still layers.

Reflective insulation materials

Mainly resists radiant heat flow due to its high reflectivity and low emissivity. It relies on the presence of an air layer of at least 25mm next to the shiny surface. The thermal resistance of reflective insulation varies with the direction of heat flow through it. Reflective insulation is usually shiny aluminum foil laminated onto paper or plastic and is available as sheets (sarking), concertina-type batts and multi-cell batts. Together these products are known as reflective foil laminates, or (RFL). Dust settling on the reflective surface greatly reduces performance. Face reflective surfaces downwards or keep them vertical. The anti-glare surface of single sided foil sarking should always face upwards or outwards. The total R-values for reflective insulation are supplied as ‘up’ and ‘down’ values. Total values depend on where and how the reflective insulation is installed. Make sure that system values provided by the manufacturer relate to your particular installation situation. Composite bulk and reflective materials are available that combine some features of both types. Examples include reflective foil faced blankets, foil backed batts and foil faced boards.

The building code sets out minimum requirements for the R-values of materials used in the construction of buildings. It is generally advisable to exceed these for greater comfort and energy savings. The higher the R-value, the better the thermal performance. Material R-values are supplied with bulk insulation materials and refer to the insulating value of the product alone. The higher the R-value the better the thermal performance. Total R-values are supplied with reflective insulation and depend on the product being installed as specified. R-values can differ depending on the direction of heat flow through the product. The difference is generally marginal for bulk insulation but can be pronounced for reflective insulation.

• ‘Up’ R-values describe resistance to heat flow upwards (winter R-values).
• ‘Down’ R-values describe resistance to heat flow downwards (summer R-values).

Up and down R-values should be quoted when installing reflective insulation in roofs, ceilings and floors. It is extremely important to ensure that your insulation is installed by competent, experienced professionals. Badly-installed insulation which is crammed in too tight, has gaps or gets wet will do little to protect your home, even if it's material with very high R-values. Also for using insulation materials, the walls and roof spaces also need to be constructed properly, using appropriate framing techniques, radiant barriers and other approaches to reducing heat transfer. And most importantly, insulate the foundations, basement walls and slabs, especially in colder climates.

Underfloor Insulation

If you live in a home with timber floors, underfloor insulation is a particularly effective way to get on top of winter chills. High quality underfloor insulation not only stops cold draughts from whistling up between floorboards, it also creates a barrier against moisture that will ensure mould can’t take hold beneath carpets during the wet months. Slabs on grade can be insulated by digging around the perimeter and installing foam board. When the building is new construction, then it might be easier to only install the foam board against the exterior of the slab and footing, or under the slab. Slab foundations with interior insulation provide more termite resistance, but some builders in the southeastern United States have even reported termite infestations through foam insulation on contained slabs.

Underfloor insulation is required for in cool climates and often in other climates. Insulate the underside of suspended floors:

• in cool temperate and alpine climates
• in temperate climates in some cases
• in high humid and hot dry climates where air conditioning is used.

Insulate the edge of slabs-on-ground:

• in cool temperate and alpine climates
• in temperate climates where slab heating is used.

Insulate the underside of slabs-on-ground:

• in alpine climates
• where groundwater is present.

Enclosing subfloor spaces in mixed climates may be sufficient to reduce heat transfer.

Having a timber floor insulated professionally, including filling the gaps between the floorboards and around the skirting, depends on the size and shape of the room and the insulation material used, but typically costs around £800. The insulation will make the room feel warmer in the winter and reduce heating bills by as much as £90 per year.

Underfloor insulation is a simple and effective way to keep your home warm and reduce your energy bills. Regardless of whether you have a suspended wooden floor or a concrete floor, improving your undefloor insulation could save you money. You may also be able to get financial help and other support to help you pay to have the insulation installed by a professional. Solid insulation boards, or rolls of mineral fiber similar to those used to insulate lofts can be fitted between the flooring joists. If your floor is above an unheated cellar or basement you will need to fit the insulation tightly between the joists and secure in place with netting if needed. Plasterboard should then be fixed to the ceiling of the basement to provide fire resistance. If a floor is being replaced, this is a perfect opportunity to improve the standard of insulation. In fact, where this is the case, upgrading your floor insulation is required in order to comply with building regulations. Insulation can be added over the existing concrete slab or underneath a new one. Where insulation is placed above the slab, the rooms will warm up more quickly when the heating is switched on. High performance rigid insulation boards are often the best materials to insulate an existing concrete slab floor, as they provide the best thermal performance at any given thickness. Keeping the thickness of your insulation to a minimum will reduce the likelihood of having to make costly alterations to door openings, stairs and other fixtures as a result of the increase in floor heights.

A Well Insulated House

Having a good house insulation is not only a great way to live toward a greener ideal, but to also save yourself some money on heating and cooling bills. Increasing the thermal insulation in an existing home doesn’t have to be difficult, and the financial payoff can be substantial in the long run. It is more cost-effective to add house insulation during construction than to retrofit it after the house is finished. To properly insulate a new home, you’ll need to know where to insulate and the recommended R-values for each of those areas. Use a tool to determine where you need to insulate and the recommended R-values based on your climate, type of heating and cooling system, etc. Once you know where you need to insulate and the recommended R-values, review our information on the types of insulation to help you decide what type to use and where. Before you insulate a new home, you also need to properly air seal it and consider moisture control. When remodeling, one of the best and fastest ways to insulate is using blown-in insulation. Blown-in insulation, when installed with the dense pack technique, will offer superior air sealing. It can be installed easily, reducing the amount of preparation needed. If you’re remodeling and your wall cavities will be open, look into two-part spray foam or wet spray cellulose insulation. If you are building a new home, then there are many alternatives to choose from, including structural insulated panels, insulating concrete forms, and insulated concrete blocks. All of these materials are considered insulating materials as they are manufactured with the purpose of increasing R values on a building. If you’re building a traditional framed house, consider using advanced wall framing techniques. These techniques improve the whole-wall R-value by reducing thermal bridging and maximizing the insulated wall area.

In most climates, you will save money and energy when you build a new home or addition if you install a combination of cavity insulation and insulated sheathing. Reduce exterior wall leaks by taping the joints of exterior sheathing and caulking and sealing exterior walls. Cavity fibrous or cellulose insulation can be installed at levels up to R-15 in a 2 inch x 4 inch wall and up to R-21 in a 2 inch x 6 inch wall. R-values can be higher for foam insulation and other advanced insulation systems.

Three critical elements of house insulation strategy are:

1.    The type of insulation material to be use

2.    Where it is installed to be installed

3.    And how much is needed

If there is no upcoming work being done on the home, you will want to consider which season is best for installation. Although, if you are in a cold climate some people wait until winter, hoping that prices will become lower, the cost of insulation actually remains fairly constant throughout the year. The best option is to choose an installation time that will increase energy cost savings. If you're having a new home built, be sure to talk to your builder about these elements so that you can be assured the house insulation strategy will contribute to a comfortable, efficient home.

Noise proof Insulation

Noise is simply unwanted sound. In the home, most people consider noise to be just about any sound other than the sound made by what they’re doing. Limiting the transmission of sound from one area to another requires a material that encloses the source of the noise and forms a barrier that absorbs vibrations between the source and the adjacent areas. This is exactly how soundproof insulation works.

Installing soundproof insulation for walls, floors, and ceilings:

• Drywall, (also called wallboard, plasterboard, or gypsum board), such as Sheetrock. An excellent and inexpensive source of mass, which is a key element in soundproofing. Drywall is a great cheap soundproofing material.
• Damped drywall. Drywall which incorporates a sound damping layer. You can also get the same results more cheaply by creating your own damped drywall, by applying damping compound between two sheets of regular drywall.
• Sound-deadening fiberboard. Because of their low mass, these are not the best choice for soundproofing walls, but are sometimes useful in floors as a spacing layer if additional mass is not needed. They don't provide damping, decoupling, or absorption.

Moreover, not every type of insulation reduces noise. Reflective insulation such as radiant barrier works by reflecting radiant heat from the sun. It is installed in the attic, right under the roof and reflects energy from the sun, which keeps your home a lot more comfortable but doesn’t act as a sound barrier at all. If you want a sound proof insulation, cellulose, fiberglass and foam insulation are great choices. These types of insulation reduce outside noises and noises from room to room and between different levels of your home or building. Fiberglass and cellulose can be installed in walls, floors and ceilings. There are two different types of sound: airborne and impact. Airborne noises come from outside and also include noises from the TV, music and other things inside the house. Impact noise includes footsteps and vibrations from large appliances such as your washer and dryer. Insulation reduces both airborne and impact noises. If your walls are properly insulated, you’d probably be surprised at how much quieter noises from the outside seems.

Fortunately, there are a number of soundproof insulation or noise-reducing initiatives you can take to alleviate the problem. The most effective of these are best done during a building or remodeling project because they involve the way walls or other structural elements are built. Many housing experts believe that using permanent, soundproof insulation solutions isn't necessary. This is mainly because the performance of a soundproofing installation may not be up to the expected levels. Then you have to tear down the existing soundproofing additions, a situation which results in unwanted expense. Furthermore, such permanent solutions pose a problem if the house has to be redecorated. Homeowners should use soundproofing solutions that are affordable, effective and flexible. Unlike professional solutions that might create the need to seek legal permissions, easy soundproofing methods pose no such issues. You should understand that at the core of every soundproof insulation technique lies a simple concept which sound waves create reverberations and echoes that you need to limit.

Building a Soundproofing Walls

During building or remodeling, an effective and affordable way to improve the soundproofing walls and ceilings is to put batt or blanket insulation between studs or joists. This absorbs the sound that would otherwise easily travel through the air pockets between wall framing. The result of soundproofing walls will be a peaceful and private home for all to enjoy. Soundproofing insulation is typically made of mineral wool or also known as rock wool, fiberglass, and sometimes cotton or cellulose materials. Soundproofing walls and sound blockers keep noise from traveling through walls and floors from one space to another. Sound blockers are typically hard, heavy, thick, or in some cases flexible materials that reflect noise. To keep noise from entering a room, they are typically installed in walls, ceilings, floors, and doors. Sound absorbing materials and methods keep noise from bouncing around inside a room, improving sound quality in a room. Sound absorbing materials are typically porous, lightweight, and soft to the touch which foam panels are a familiar form. Because they are often applied to surfaces as a finish material, they come in a variety of colors and styles.

Soundproofing Wall Construction:

Metal wall studs

Using metal wall studs helps; the same wall, built with 2 1/2-inch metal studs, yields an STC rating of 45.

Two layers of drywall

Another way to achieve better performance is to apply a second layer of 1/2-inch gypsum wallboard to one side of the wall. This gives the surface more mass, making it less prone to vibrate and transfer sound waves. Adding this layer to one side of an insulated wall increases the STC rating to 40; adding it to both sides pushes the STC to 45.

Sound isolation systems

An even more effective way to build an interior wall is to mount 1/2-inch gypsum wallboard on special resilient channels or clips that across the wall. These channels or clips absorb sound so it isn’t conducted through the wall studs, resulting in an STC rating of about 46. The drywall is screwed to a flange on the channels, not to the studs.

Staggered wall studs

In roughly the same category is a wall with staggered wall studs. Though this requires more labor and framing material, a wall of 2-by-4 studs, staggered along 2-by-6 bottom and top plates with two thicknesses of fiberglass insulation, produces an STC of about 50. Because the wall surfaces are each fastened to an independent set of studs, noise can’t travel through the studs from one surface to the other.

Fire blocking

Where codes and safety allow, consider eliminating fire blocking in interior walls; these short blocks, mounted horizontally between wall studs, transmit noise readily from one wall surface to the other. If you’re thinking about doing this, be sure to check with your local building department.

Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV)

Barriers offer a serious step-up, with an STC addition of about 32. Made of high-density organic sands and salts, as well as minute metal particles, these 1/8 to 1/4-inch-thick products are sold in 4-by-8-foot sheets and 4.5-by-20-foot rolls. At about 2 pounds per square foot, they are heavier than they look.

In the application of soundproofing walls, experts highly recommend using the rigid panel style mineral wool or rock wool products. These insulation products are usually sold in the form of rigid panels and softer batts. They are sized for use within residential interior walls, floors, and ceilings.

Proper Insulation of Roof

Specifying roof insulation that extends a roof system's performance life is essential, but it is only one factor maintenance and engineering managers must always consider. When managers select a roof insulation, they also must consider for the building's thermal needs, satisfy applicable energy codes and deliver a roof assembly acceptable to the facility's insurance carrier. The type of roof insulation you should choose will depend on the type of roof you have. Pitched roof - there are two options: warm or cold loft insulation. Flat roof - there are three options available: warm deck, cold deck or inverted roof.

If you are having your roof insulation roof installed professionally or under a grant, there are a number of additional tasks that are normally carried out:

• Remember to cover the pipes with pipe insulation. Your loft will be colder due to the insulation keeping the warmth in the floors below, so you're more likely to get burst pipes in freezing weather.
• Insulation should go up the side and over any tanks, or special tank insulation can be used, but you mustn't insulate under any tanks, as without some heat flowing up from below, these are also likely to freeze.
• If your tank is in a raised position at least 10cms above the uppermost layer of insulation, then you can insulate the underside of the tank.
• If there are electric cables in the loft, try to leave these exposed so they can remain cool. If there is enough slack, they can be gently raised and the insulation put underneath. In practice, lighting cables are unlikely to be a problem, especially if you use low energy lightbulbs.

Shower cables are most likely to need attention, although the fire risk is fairly minimal as showers tend to only be used for short periods. If you see any cables or junction boxes that appear to be in a poor state, you will need to get an electrician to put them right, anyway.

• If you have recessed halogen lights in a room below the loft, they must be protected before they are covered in insulation. Halogen lights give off a lot of heat that is concentrated in a small area, and they pose a serious fire risk if insulation is placed directly against them. Protective cylindrically shaped fire protectors, which are called loft caps or loft covers, are available and it is essential to invest in these before you install your insulation.
• Don't forget to insulate the loft hatch. This usually involves attaching a block of polystyrene insulation to its upper side, and ensuring any gaps around the side of it are sealed by applying draught proofing strips around the frame

To perform successfully, insulation roof has to become an integral part of the assembly and must function in concert with the membrane and the structural deck. Wise insulation choices result in successful roof systems that perform over the long term, while poor choices can be detrimental to roof performance.